Camping. It’s so overrated. Being forced to wade through acres of festival detritus in a blind state of panic whilst you try and locate that humble bit of tarpaulin, to which you have become so reticently attached for the weekend is that not that much fun, really.Throwing cans of cheap lager at fellow campers’ tents as you marvel at the latest act of wreckless vandalism was maybe cool when you were fifteen, but times have changed, and setting portaloos alight should be confined to the ASBOs. But going to festivals will never get boring. Drinking in the day, cramming in as much live music as you possibly can, meeting weirdos and new ‘best friends’, this will never tire. And there’s nothing better than doing it all with the promise of ending the day in a state of blissful slumber, in a room, with a bed, and a pillow.
That’s why it’s all about city festivals nowadays. And city festivals abroad offer you that added extra: a culturally enriching experience, where you can party under the pretence, of er, cultural enrichment. So that’s why Hamburg’s Reeperbahn festival is a must for anyone wanting to do just that: treat their ears and expand their mind at the same time.
The second largest city in Germany, and Berlin’s slightly richer cousin, Hamburg boasts all of the creative accoutrements of the latter, but with a polished sheen and sense of burgeoning economic prosperity. This is thanks in main to the ‘Responsible Growth’ scheme and its many accompanying developments. Reinventing Hamburg’s neglected ‘downtown’ port district and injecting hefty sums of cash into the brand new Hamburg Philharmonic Hall ensure that very soon this oft overlooked German cultural hotspot will become a serious global player.
But it’s the baffling dichotomy between rich and poor that makes Hamburg so interesting. Walk towards the pristine, willow fringed lake and your eyes will be dazzled by the Dynasty-esque super mansions, but a short metro trip takes you into the ramshackle heart of the city’s art district, where hundreds of individuals, undeterred by the powers that be, squat together in peaceful bohemia. So the city’s overall ethos still seems to be heavily rooted in arty liberalism, where creative minds live, work and thrive.
So what of the music? St. Pauli, in the Northern quarter of Hamburg, is the throbbing pulse of the city’s nocturnal rumblings and is also where the famous Reeperbahn, or red light district, is situated. To many, the Reeperbahn is a name synonymous with that little known band from Liverpool. And I don’t mean Space. Way back in the early sixties when they were pumped full of dubious amphetamines, The Beatles played a series of exhausting shows in venues along the Reeperbahn, including the Kaiserkeller and Indra, which to this day still exist in all their humble musical glory. It seemed like the band couldn’t get enough of Hamburg back then and so cue endless tales of psychedelic debauchery, many which will continue to delight visitors to the city for years to come.
And this year holds particular significance for The Beatles’ relationship with Hamburg, as it is the fiftieth anniversary of their first ever live-performance on the Reeperbahn, which happened way back in August 17th, 1960, in the infamous Indra venue. So there’s surely no better time to be making your Reeperbahn festival foray than this September, where you will be able to catch a live musical performance of your very own at Indra. Though not from The Beatles, obviously…
So with this musical legacy in mind, it makes perfect sense to hold a music festival on the Reeperbahn. And when it comes to no holds barred revelry, things don’t seem to have changed much here since the sixties: there is still that efferverscent buzz about the place which has earned the area its booming party reputation. For the past five years Hamburg’s premier sex strip has hosted the Reeperbahn festival: a three day party likened to Texas’ SXSW or Brighton’s Great Escape, but with more sex and more neon lights, naturally. Past revellers have been treated to sets from Bon Iver, Dinosaur Junior, Tahiti 80, Wildbirds & Peacedrums, Uncle, Blood Red Shoes, and the occasional sex show, if they so please.
This year’s line-up promises roughly 170 acts, with sets from breaking artists and more established bands. Deer Tick, Wolf Parade and Stornoway, amongst many others, will descend upon Hamburg this September to play to delighted crowds of thousands. And with near on twenty-five venues covered, festival goers can really sink their teeth into the cultural underbelly of this incredible city.
Alexander Schultz, the festival’s illustrious Director, praises the diversity of the shindig. From theatres and boats to lap dancing clubs and grotty basement dives, this festival has all bases covered. “My favourite venue probably is the MS Hedi, a little boat which drives through the river Elbe whilst a band is playing on it, “ says Schultz. “You don’t get that too often on a boat trip! Another venue I’m pretty excited about is Pearls, a table dancing club which will take part in the festival for the first time this year.”
He continues: “All 25 venues are located right in the heart of the city of Hamburg within walking distance, so you can visit concerts in different venues such as a World War II bunker (Uebel und Gefährlich), an old crime theatre (Imperialtheater), the Beatles’ musical birthplace (Indra) or the famous basement club Molotow.”
Having personally spent a night of indie disco heaven in that very same World War II bunker recently, I urge everyone to go and check out this bizarrely unique venue. Just don’t mention the war…
This is how 2010’s line-up is shaping so far:
Amanda Jenssen
Babylon Circus
Band Of Skulls
beat!beat!beat!
Blood Red Shoes
Boy
Captain PlanET
Curry & Coco De Staat
Deer Tick
Dota Und Die Stadtpiraten
Earl Greyhound
Heroes & Zeros
Horse Feathers
JUNIP (José González, Tobias Winterkorn, Elias Araya)
Spaceman Spiff
Stornoway Superpunk
The Black Atlantic
The Black Box Revelation
The Chap
The Crookes
Young Rebel Set ZPYZ
And a lot of totally unprouncable German bands, of course…
As if an eye-opening trip to Hamburg is not reason enough to go to the Reeperbahn festival this year, a three-day ticket is just 59 euros, so you’ll have plenty of pennies left over to spend as you will. Hop on a sleazy jet flight and get sleazy!
Words by April Welsh
Tickets can be purchased HERE
For more info on the Reeperbahn festival, go HERE
Go HERE to enter an exclusive competiton to win an all expenses paid trip to the festival*
*Flight, hotel and 2 tickets are included, terms and conditions apply.
