Pre-determined as a must see by Clash (here), Faustine Steinmetz’s debut LFW presentation fully occupied expectation.
Staged at the ICA, a black and white set greeted guests, with models on revolving platforms, pillars full of pens and French music intercepted with the sounds of children playing and waves crashing; a different perspective on the same subject (French holidays), as fellow native Jacquemus, echoed by a ruche detail not dissimilar from tops one might have bought on holiday as a teenager.
The overall focus remained on denim, the label’s default setting, with new textures such as a cobweb and a loose felt type introduced. Metallic ‘security tags’ adorned waists, simultaneously a nod both to Chanel’s AW14 set and the suggestion of models as mannequins.
Eudon Choi’s 2pm slot meanwhile, opened with black linen looks – suit jackets and loose trousers – echoing a sense of smart casual adopted by real life women post-Philo’s Celine arrival.
Themes from SS14 were pushed forward, stripes and florals for example, but were adopted for the girl on holiday; met with an animal ‘skin’ mule, the vibe was strictly relaxed. Floral suits and dresses with upper cutaway details were favoured, vaguely reminiscent of hey day b Store or Jessica Ogden.
The Fyodor Golan girl had also packed her suitcase, and taken the audience with her, such was the raised temperature in The Vaults under Waterloo station. Partnering with Microsoft to present real time videos, a large pyramid object in the centre of the catwalk mirrored what strode past via Lumia 830 smartphones.
Colour was bright and many shapes abstract. The pieces that worked best however kept to a more traditional silhouette, arriving in various fabrics, textures and colourways. When a pair of his and hers iridescent suits came out, 85% of smart phones shot in the air.
Finally Shrimps – another presentation debut Clash had been eagerly anticipating – saw Hannah Weiland add to her faux fur concept with both fake pony hair and fake stingray skin, both a more lightweight alternative to the label’s classic bear type furs.
Also new were collaborations with Poplin and Sophia Webster, producing silk pyjama looky likey sets smothered with the cute illustrations currently in action on the website, and faux fur high heels, each proving Shrimps exists beyond the faux fur hype.
Track of the Day: 'Strong' by London Grammar at Daks.
Want more? Check out the LFW live stream here.
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