It’s that time of year again.
London Fashion Week is one of the most important dates on the fashion calendar, a chance for emerging talent to rub shoulders with iconic figures, a place where reputations are made and broken.
This year the event is bigger than ever, with Clash sending a team of roving reporters to events across the city. Over the coming week we will present up to the minute reports, with exclusive galleries from all the hottest shows.
Keep checking back for the latest reports…
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A whole lot of Wild Western fun, sequins, tassels, cowhide and leopard print, trucker caps and feather headresses. Sequined neckerchiefs were oversized and cowboy boots had cactus and MacDonalds motifs. Long leather tassels were sewn to the back pockets of denim jeans and swung sexily down the catwalk as the models strutted and bopped along with heaps of attitude to soundtracks by Dominique Young Unique, ‘Show My Ass’ and Cazwell’s ‘I Saw Beyonce (At Burger King)’. It was a lively young colourful show, a glamorous hoe-down – I think everyone wanted to join in.
Charlie Le Mindu
Detox-Retox-Botox, was the name of Charlie’s SS11 show. A frivolous riskque collection with leopard print leotards and pink flamingo inspired dresses, plunging neck lines and colourful wigs. The vibe was trashy/glam decadent LA fetish club scene – in a good way. A super sexy soundtrack was created for the show by Kap Bambino – steamy electro. Models wore plastic head pieces, one with a wine bottle strapped to her head, one had a sign that read Hollywood in bold block letters. Some models strutted down the catwalk nude with only a head piece and huge bright pink PVC fetish heels – hot! All the models were ultra sexy full of attitude. Make-up was heavy, black eyebrows and dark maroon lips with lots of lip liner. Jewellery was by Sabrina Emami, gorgeous gold jewelled earrings. Amazing show, I loved it!
A wonderfully executed SS11 collection – gorgeous intricate ruffle pleated skirts were inspired by Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake. There was metal embellishment to some of the body con dresses made to look like python scales in vertical linear arrangements which was inspired by cubist artist Fernand Leger and slihouttes were 50’s inspired. Colours were pale powder yellows, metallics and monochrome black and white. Fabrics included delicate chiffon and organza. Koma collaborated with Mawi, jewellery maker on some huge knuckle dusters and cuffs in gold and hematite – they were
immense! The tough geometric jewellery was definitely eye catching and worked well as a juxtaposition to the elegance and femininity of the garments. Shoes by Alain Quilici continued the graphic concept of the collection. Having spoken to David before the show about his collection he seemed to be giving little away, the collection exceeded my expectations and was well worth the suspense.
Tribal decor glamour at Holly Fulton SS11 with a fun colour palette and strong geometric prints. Joan Collins was the muse for this collection and she was definitely channelled through this show. The story behind this collection was ladies on tour, on a cruise stopping off at all the chicest resorts, effortless, relaxed holiday glamour. A perforated yellow leather frock was a strong summer look and the swimsuits were ultra glamorous. Looks were teamed with statement sunglasses, extravagant jewelled earrings and Egyptian looking breast plate necklaces.
Entitled ‘They Died Too Young’- it was inspired by drifting, rebellious youngsters, think the unstable protagonists of Midnight Cowboy and My Own Private Idado. Some pieces in the collection even take on names of these silver screen icons with jeans labelled James Long Dean Trousers. There was clashing print, tye dye and swirling pools of marble print in rich lilacs, pinks, blues and oranges. Textured loose knits with a worn damaged aesthetic were teamed with cow pelt leathers and light denim. Cole Mohr gave an edge of goth to the collection in leather shorts and a knit twin set in violet and blood red.
Jean Pierre Braganza
Futuristic native American inspired looks, feathers in hair and tassels, muted pastel tones dresses, jumpsuits and leathers. Braganza likens the collection to ‘listening to Heavy Metal whispered by faries’ – the Mia Born Free soundtrack thrashed out as models floated along the catwalk. Strong eye make-up in metallic pink and electric blue was used with a nude lip. The collection continued on nicley from last season with graphic
prints this time with mystical raven motifs, pink flames and flowers. The show had a mystical, ethereal air. A baby pink floor length gown with matching leather was a favourite look – striking yet wearable for SS11, lots of pastel blue – icy tones, a trend set to be big for next year. Braganza has also collaborated with Barlcays and his prints will soon appear on their hire bikes around London – travel in style.
The highly anticipated SS11 collection the Devoured and I, from this young Irish designer, did not disappoint. Having already interviewed Johnathan for the magazine I had an insight of what to expect and was excited at the mention of A Virgin Suicides inspired show, he had joked saying that the show was like an LSD trip… the trip was amazing. It was a psycadelic mish mash of tie dye colour and texture, there were more collars, crocheted embellished tulle tops tied around the waist, Docs with massive shards of Sworoski crystal on the toe caps and sharp collared floral shirts worn with neck ties. It ended and a huge lazer beam streamed over
the catwalk and a misty smoke rose and created a cloud when the models walked out, then Pulps ‘Do you Remember the First Time’ played. It was a wonderful collection capturing the essence of rebellious 90’s youth subculture. I loved it and I’m sure this marks an exciting journey for this designer whom is no doubt destined for greatness.
Inspired by the silver screens depictions of the American desert, the collection merged the characters of Bagdad Cafe’s Marianne Sage-brecht and Badland’s Sissy Spacek. There were oversized shirts in silk, leather dresses and draped dresses with panes of jersey. Panama hats by Noel Stewart were veiled in georgette and floated beautifully down the catwalk, they were a high light of the show, very luxurious and captured the desert feel. There were thunder, rock and vulture feather motifs. The sinister moody ambience was added to with the Skream & the Orb soundtrack mixed by Lasse Lyngbo – It was a strong, sultry sophisticated collection.
Miss Dellal made a dramatic entrance opening the show banging a pair of drums – she was actually wearing the drums and nothing else apart from huge cream and brown leather strappy heels and antlers ears. Pam’s other favourite girls Sophie Willing Ben Grimes and Daisy Lowe also featured in the show. There were more of her signature sci-fi leotards and catsuits and kitten suits with batwing sleeves, thigh high boots and bustles. Parts of the collection were coats and jumpsuits in cream linen with brown leather belts strapped across the front giving the clothes a straight jacket feel, the bondage theme was taken further with some of the models having boxes strapped to their heads and belted over their mouth. Pam wore a cream belted catsuit to walk out in at the end of the show with Alice – I loved it it rocked. As always at Pam’s shows there was a character filled audience with Janice Dickenson, Bobby Gillespe and Amber Rose seated in the front rows.
The Topman Design show was the second in the season and for SS11 the in house team was under the direction of Alistair Mackie and Gordon Richardson. It was in the beautiful location of the Royal Opera House, a huge, light airy space. The collection had some great key pieces flamboyant floral shirts, rouched high waisted shorts and trousers – perhaps for the bolder boy and colorful macs. The sunglasses followed the latest obsession with large Lennon style circular tinted lenses, a unisex trend continuing through to next year. The collection mixed elements of slick 60’s retro shirts and suit jackets, with sweatshirts and bright, kitsch more modern knits. Over sized military bags were heavily embellished with tie pins as were thin strap belts which added to plain waist lines. Select pieces from the show are even available to purchase right now.
Words by Camilla Felici