SS25: Martine Rose Makes A Statement With A Gloomy Chic Runway Show

The British-Jamaican designer hits up Milan Fashion Week with party wigs, prosthetic noses and leather chap pants.

Taking place in an arts centre situated by Porta Romana, Martine Rose is switching things up for her SS25 runway show.

Subversive, daring and evocative, the British Jamaican visionary brings her eponymous fashion label to Milan Fashion Week, exploring underground subcultures through elevated streetwear. Since 2007, Martine Rose has established herself as a connector between emerging designers and firmly-rooted figures across the creative industries, hosting a wealth of collaborations spanning Nike, Clarks, Stussy and Stella Artois. In doing so, she hones a unique relationship between more obscure, conceptual work and the mainstream, which is only highlighted further with her latest runway collection.

Throughout, models make a parodic statement against conventional beauty, throwing wigs over their heads with latex-coloured prosthetic noses. The result is somewhat chaotic, but all the more eye-catching and expressive in its search to caution against the superficiality of entertainment. Stylistically, Martine takes a playful approach to office wear, embracing her quirks through cartoon-illustrated ties, loud, fuchsia jackets tucked into fitted pencil skirts or motorbike guards used as brasserie cups. Paired with kink detailings (a recurring theme across this season’s runways) the designer incorporates leather chaps between numerous looks, embellished with racy, easy-access front zips. 

There is a continuity woven across the collection, making reference to previous archive pieces and imagery. Most notably, the show spotlights a print featuring passport headshots of the Martine Rose studio team, presented over a slouched party shirt. Elsewhere, the label previews one of Clarks’ 200th Anniversary collaborations, a capsule titled ‘Coming Up Roses’ which offers an off-kilter, vintage flair to the Desert Boot, Desert London and Dress models.

There is a gloomy chic to Martine Rose’s SS25 runway show, flitting between lavish silk looks and logo-heavy day-to-day wear. Balancing between over and understatement, the forward-thinker continues to expand on her legacy with grace and edge.

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