While four mannish looks opened the show – cut off trench coats and tuxedo collars – more prominent (and favoured) at Marios Schwab were the many subtle notes, translated through a palette of teal and stone and absorbed by dresses topped with 90’s necklines.
These were followed by black, white and grey printed fabrics, which similarly didn’t shout or scream, and unfortunately lacked the bold silhouettes of their block counterparts.
In addition to said necklines – square shaped, raised – a series of dressed up chokers reinforced the 90’s theme, as two strands of gold eclipsed necks.
At Topshop Unique the mood was typically excited, with a full line up of well known faces sat several rows ahead of Clash and the likes of Cara, Jourdan, Sam Rollinson, Charlotte Wiggins and Lily Donaldson all partaking in the show.
“Riffing on the subcultures of the British Isles” translated as Prada tinted (no bad thing!) sporty looks ahead of a debutante pretty frock section; the former was accessorised with Prism sunglasses while the latter realised the theme with wrist corsages.
Similarly to its brother brand Topman Design (completely different team, same office) who showed at LC:M in June, the offering was strong, particularly for the opening sports-cum-Breton inspired section which featured zipped knits and fantastic coloured leather jackets.
Next up was Ashley Williams, who made her NEWGEN/post-Fashion East debut with a salon show slap bang beside Topshop. Styled by Max Pearmain of Arena Homme Plus, the look here took a different course to previous, perhaps more instantly commercial outings.
Instead layering took centre stage, with Swarovski Crystal embellished bralets worn over oriental inspired tops over long sleeve jerseys. Doodles made for patterns – referencing Williams’ graduate collection – while the word ‘Zuburbz’ (like suburbs) made its way down arms and across chests; a forthcoming collaboration with Red or Dead produced the monochrome heels.
Shades of pink, grey, red and black were accented with bursts of yellow, which four seasons in now felt like a typical Ashley Williams palette. With her wet hair and fierce coloured eye shadow, Williams’ girl was the leader of the pack.
Track of the Day: 'Girlfriend in a Coma' by The Smiths at Ashley Williams.