Generally speaking there are no abrupt changes for the Michael van der Ham woman, she likes pretty things: feminine fabrics, shiny prints and a spot of applique. Or at least this is how the designer’s clothes – coupled with Leith Clark’s styling – are predominantly presented.
But there are seasonal mood shifts; AW14’s bright tights were yesterday swapped for a bare leg (it is a summer collection), while heavy laces were replaced by light chiffon, provoking a sense of air and space.
Looks 11 and 13 were noted for interesting blouses with cut-out collage type details, while the order of the show ensured contrasting ‘day/night’ looks collided, providing a collaged outing if you will.
At Burberry Prorsum the look was youth culture, emphasised by the strong sandal options and several pairs of trainers. In forgoing the height of the more traditional high heel, Christopher Bailey changed the brand’s recognised silhouette.
The addition of denim jackets – and others of a similar shape – further complimented this new look, pulled in tight and bound by jolly white fluff either at the hem or across the front.
Suede and chiffon fabrics were noted too, as, again, the under-25 factor slipped in via bag straps pulled right across the body and large knots of tulle around the waist intimidating tied jumpers.
For her second mainline collection for Issa London, Blue Farrier produced a monochrome heavy offering, featuring similar artistic tendencies to those witnessed for AW14. A squiggle here, graffiti style flower there, and an impressive horse print inbetween.
Texture here was also a key fixture, with appliqued flowers and fishermen’s net style crochet lifting later looks; a stunning strapless dress in black also riffed off this, made from a super shiny silk and carried off with ease.
Track of the Day: James Bay singing live at Burberry Prorsum.