Bruta Begins: AW15

Clash gets the lowdown on the new London shirt label.

Bored of contemporary streetwear labels that make “loud, obnoxious, attention seeking clothing,” Arthur Yates founded Bruta at the beginning of the year as a device to conceive “contemporary and unassuming” pieces, namely oversized shirts.

A fan of the Prada and Comme des Garcons’ of the industry, the Londoner has similarly borrowed from the art world; Paul Gauguin’s Tahiti period is the starting point for his debut collection.

Comprised of just ten pieces, the AW15 line is the star of a Phoebe Saatchi directed short, below, in which two tribes go to war. Less Frankie Goes to Hollywood, more early Kate Nash, the film is a sweet reminder of fashion’s playful side and a confident introduction for the young label.

With a two week residency at London boutique Celestine Eleven just about to start, we quizzed Yates on the small print.




What were you doing before Bruta, you didn't have any form fashion training is that right?
I've been in two bands, Famy with whom I released our first album last year, and a seven piece disco band called Los Porcos. I haven't ever been to a fashion school, designing and manufacturing clothing is just something I enjoy doing. 

Why shirts?
Shirts are a classic and seemed like a strong starting point for a fashion label.

And what is it about Gauguin's work that most resonates with you?
Not only does he paint gorgeous pictures, but I love his study of primitivism. Today we live such complicated, synthetic lives compared to the natural, simple Tahitian lifestyle in Gauguin's paintings.

What was the inspiration behind the film?
We wanted to use big industrial London landscapes as a backdrop to the shirts. It was important to accentuate the displacement between the shirts and the urban environment. 

How did the Celestine Eleven residency come about?
I've always loved the shop and everyone that works there. It is a special independent shop that shares our vision for the brand, allowing us the freedom to launch it in the way we wanted to.

Finally, what's the Bruta brand plan?
I'm looking at extending the range and exploring new ways to manufacture the collection in the UK. I want to produce as much as possible locally and it’s an aspect of the label that excites me at the moment.


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