Spring Summer 14: The Trends

Notes on what SS14 brought with it.

A month of shows, a series of trends; from taking our seats at Somerset House in London to making a cuppa for the Miu Miu live stream from Paris, we’ve been watching it all.

Already we’ve picked our favourites from New York, Milan and Paris – find them here, here and here – and waxed lyrical about what London had to offer (loads).

Now Clash looks to the trends. Those details designers had on repeat but which held our attention and had us fooled into thinking it was the first glimpse of the season. Many designers racked up two or three trends per look, such was the mood of Spring Summer 14.

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Palette A girlish selection of pastel tones made their way down numerous runways this season. Taking on a host of personalities, the defining application of colour was in the form of a feminine number, by way of cut or fabric.

Less Gap-does-West-Side-Story circa 2000, more youthful and at times quite Cher Horowitz (see Carven specifically), next summer pastels will cling to the body via all manner of garments.

While the pastel image that sticks most prominently from Autumn Winter 13 were Simone Rocha and Ryan Lo’s fraggle furs, Spring Summer 14’s pastel wearer is more woman less teenage girl.

See Carven, Burberry Prorsum and Emporio Armani.

Texture From the moment our eyes gazed at that Marc by Marc Jacobs blue suit near the beginning of the season, satin was on our radar.

There’s something very wrong about the material that in turn makes it completely right. It’s slinky but not by definition sexy or even grown up, yet it has the power to control an outfit.

Used sparingly at MBMJ, no other fabric would have offered the ease or comfort the collection welcomed. Other designers meanwhile chose it for more mature looks.

See Marc by Marc Jacobs, Haider Ackermann and Veronique Branquinho.

Appearance Sheer ruled supreme this season, with designers aplenty upping the ante via translucent cloth.

A peak of thigh through a pair of trousers, bare breasts basically touchable beneath a dress, or a fabric subdued under a ghost layer; all was apparent for SS14.

In opposition to the little girl colours of the season, see through fabrics offered designers a slice of sex appeal, while – for the most part at least – resisting any sense of trash or indeed brashness that so often are associated.

Simone Rocha’s more ‘sexy’ looks saw the sheer fabric lift and modernise a traditional shape (and pearls!), so that it felt fresh.

See Marques’ Almeida, Simone Rocha and Iceberg.

Product The traditional sense of season doesn’t take up as much headspace as it once did for designers, such is the changing nature of fashion and business.

Designers have learnt that when it’s summer in one place it’ll be winter in another, so whenever clothes are on shelves someone will be out of sync. Hence for Spring Summer we saw plenty of coats and jackets (Miu Miu anyone?).

The most popular of these were new takes on the bomber jacket. Keeping the elasticated neck, wrists and hem (at least one), designers used the shape to add an essence of sport and casualness to collections.

See Neil Barrett, Stella McCartney and Jonathan Saunders.

Models Plenty of girls have walked plenty of shows this season, but there are a few faces that popped up time and time again. Five of those were Malaika Firth, Edie Campbell, Sam Rollinson, Julia Nobis and Grace Mahary.

The latter three may not be instantly recognisable, but Firth and Campbell will likely have been welcomed into your subconscious of late.

Firth has been celebrated this year as the first black model to star in a Prada campaign since Naomi Campbell, 19 years ago. Edie on the other hand, is the owner of the body painted with Stephen Sprouse’s famous lettering for Marc Jacobs’ final Louis Vuitton collection, opening the show.

All images from Style.com.

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