Stepping into Martine Rose’s presentation was something akin to entering an installation at the Tate Modern, Saatchi Gallery, or any other art space of such stature; if you ignored the white translucent curtains and grey floor that is. The latter in turn suggested you were on the set of a photo shoot, which really, we kind of were.
Frank Lebon-brother of photographer Tryone-modelled, sitting on a floral sofa, walking around adding jackets, and twirling on a rotating platform, the same kind seen in the same space five months previous.
A curly blond wig sat atop his head and there was silver glitter across his face, while black and white Adidas football boots were displaced between a sparkly platform and the floor.
Two clothing rails stood either side of the living room like set-up, hanging on them was the rest of the collection. Wide leg trouser shapes, leather shorts, branded sweatshirts, evening shirts, bomber jackets; these made up most of SS14.
As with Meadham Kirchhoff’s AW13 womenswear line, the pieces were doused in frills and primarily monochrome, down to the socks which appeared in the look book images by Oliver Hadlee Pearch, taped to the wall at the back. Dark red also appeared, as did a light shade of blue.
There was the space for attendees to wander-in contrast to last season when guests sat, crouched and stood around-but at the same time there was a cosy atmosphere on display. It was comfortable, but remained intriguing.
Words: Zoe Whitfield
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