Simone Rocha, we love you. From the delicate chiffon gloves, gold glittery shoes and clasped grandmother’s handbags, through to the full yellow fluffy suit, black glittery dress and slim line nude skirt and top, Rocha’s was a collection made up of hits that had us more excited then is characteristic for 9am on a Tuesday morning.
There were clean lines in the opening pink pieces, fun ideas with the leopard print skirt and collar, and grown up girlyness with the addition of the glittered dresses, all carried off with an extreme sense of ease. Where party dresses were to be found, the teaming of a patent lace up made for a smart casual (forgive us) mood.
Closely behind Rocha on the schedule, Lucas Nascimento’s woman wears a roll neck like most wear a bra; a daily essential lost only with the right eveningwear. The only neck we were given full view of in his 25 look presentation was the closing model’s, who wore an off the shoulder red top and ankle length scarlet skirt, the shades perfectly matched for the grey leather shoes found on her feet.
The shoes-a style celebrated throughout in grey, navy and black-covered the toes but left the rest of the foot on show with just the thinnest strip at the heel and a tie around the ankle; the high heel was an offbeat cylinder shape, slightly curving at each end. The clothes saw hems kept low, trousers wide and colours dark, minus the looks in light grey and yellow. A smart wardrobe, even the alice bands worn by the models-around rather than atop heads-seemed proper as apposed to playful.
Fun was the agenda for Leutton Postle, who showed their AW13 collection with a short film, champagne and turquoise seats in the Canon Cinema at Somerset House. Blonde hair crimped, lips painted red, a single model danced around a white space full of sheets of coloured plastic; sheets and clothes were hung up on the walls around the cinema too. Sometimes clapping, other times doing beauty queen style waves, she wore woolen pleated pieces in colours such as violet, orange and green. The Marcus Lancaster soundtrack created a good time atmosphere that saw Clash stick around for more showings than we’re able to recall.
Performance is part of Nasir Mazhar’s DNA, and yesterday was no different as Shystie performed at the Tate Modern surrounded by dancers in his Autumn Winter collection. With a DJ, smoke machines and the Tanks own underground vibes, the rapper and her lady’s donned clear stripper heels, satin and fake fur, for a routine that saw pouts and poses galore.
Showcasing a new direction for Mazhar, we witnessed ankle length pleated skirts, cheerleader (read: short) pleated skirts, velvet crop tops-continuing last season’s logo elastic band-and jumpers baring appliqued illustrations (one with his menswear’s bucket head chap on). Skirts were made of satin in baby blue, orange and pink, while fake fur was used to cover cropped jackets, sleeves and as added volume to hair.
Our last show of the season saw us run like the wind to catch sequin king Ashish at Somerset House. Paired with bride like off-white satin heels-all the better for giving the clothes the microphone, as it were-the main story running through the show was work wear, primarily construction wear. Alongside Clash, Aluna Francis and Kate Nash watched models walk the catwalk in patchwork denim, high visibility waistcoats (sequined variety) and reflective wear; sat front row the latter was noted as a grey waterproof fabric, in photographs it makes for an almost cartoon like image.
Towards the end holographic sequins smothered trousers, dresses and jumpsuits, while slogan tees made an appearance stating, ‘I’m having a shit day thanks’ and three looks from the finale, ‘The end is near’.
And then the end really was here, London Fashion Week Autumn Winter 13, done.
Image from Style.com.