Arriving at 20 Triton Street, guests were ushered not into the building’s smart main entrance – as might befit the sharp designs of Richard Nicoll – but through the loading bay round the back.
The scene was not too dissimilar from last season’s Tate Tanks scenario (plenty of concrete), but proved a step further in the utility direction, being a working building back end. Benches and press releases meanwhile echoed the clean pink invite, adding another layer to the surroundings.
With Nico’s ‘Frozen Warnings’ playing all around us and providing the mood, models slowly made their way across an upper tier at the far end of the room before hitting the catwalk. At the other end a line of white tape saw the girls walk in a diagonal before turning to the photo pit’s path.
It took 12 looks before any colour made it out (pink, naturally), as pieces strode by predominantly in black and white. Houndstooth – in either black or white, never the traditional monochrome – was presented via sequins and textured fabrics, while later on stripes of the same shades adorned many pieces.
Sheer fabrics shone through via panels or layered over other garments, and silver glitter was given a fresh identity via bomber jackets, crop tops and fitted frocks.
While 33 looks long, the presentation felt shorter then most, a strong indication of Nicoll’s precision.
All images from www.style.com.