From the mosaic tiled floors of the Freemasons Hall for AW13 to what was essentially the back room of a fancy café for Spring Summer 14, Phoebe English yesterday presented in a small but perfectly formed room within Somerset House.
Centre stage a ‘dystopian post-apocalyptic’ display sat, produced by David White – he behind Mary Katrantzou’s 18,000 live carnations from SS12 – and music heard overhead was curated by Gabriel Bruce.
The set, a million miles away from the aforementioned carnations, was formed of loose pyramids of black coal, with three beaming white lights darting out. At points the girls walked round the piece in a daisy chain formation, while other times they stood like a gaggle of school girls roughly lining up at the back of the room.
With piercings left in, models (apparently) own jewellery left on and hair seemingly as it was when the ladies left their homes, there was a casual sense to the two hour event that enhanced the clothes; they appeared natural to the wearer, with only the footwear of a strict uniform (transparent black socks and leather flats).
Sheer fabrics were strong across the board while tops and pencil skirts made up of knotted fabrics were also apparent, providing a further element of texture.
Elastic bandage like top sections paired with chunky open end zips were reminiscent of Christopher Kane’s breakthrough SS07 collection – as well as 1920s bust reducing methods – but were clearly redefined for the English aesthetic.
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