Fashion East Menswear Installations x Red Bull

Lulu's gang with added e numbers.

For their second Mercer Street Studios jaunt, Fashion East hooked up with the peoples favourite energy drink, Red Bull, confirming their designer collective as the most hyped up in town (thanks to all them e numbers).

Under the Catwalk Studio branch of the brand, Liam Hodges, Tom Ryling, Nicomede Talavera, Roxanne Farahmand and Massimo Casagrande went where Alex Mattsson and Fred Butler have (admittedly) been before, joining forces with several musical talents all in aid of a dandy presentation.

Of which Clash witnessed five.

Liam Hodges’ ‘Druid Road’ collection was dressed up “to look a bit like an aerial Stonehenge and it’s been decked out along English magic ‘Ley Lines’ (Google it) to boot.”

Translated to the middle of a room in Covent Garden this meant a circular position, with models – such as Is Tropical’s Simon Milner – scattered beside amps, setlists and black and white posters bearing Hodges’ logo and collection name.

Continuing with a similar theme, colourway and aesthetic as SS14, the new pieces offered a deeper investigation of Liam’s inspirations. A Gorilla tape coat stood out as a magnificent beast of a beaut, both proper and half arsed at the same time.

Also showing for his second season, Tom Ryling presented ‘He Taught Me How To Fight’ under a theme of red, white and black.

With “a man besotted” at its heart, the five-look collection introduced hand held bags and painted denim, the former Ryling’s idea of a modern luxury. Elsewhere layering played a central role, as hands dipped in pockets demonstrated.

This may have been Nicomede Talavera’s first stint at London Collections: Men, but you wouldn’t have guessed it from the press release; a fourth Eastpak collaboration, knitwear produced with CSM MA graduate Jaimee McKenna and zip pullers the work of Talavera and Lampo. 

The boy likes to network, evidently.

It paid off though, with his school of Raf Simons style pieces firm favourites. Aesthetically everything was kept simple, to a point, beyond which texture and motif evoked intrigue but never fuss, clean being the name of the game (we presume).

The shirts presented by Massimo Casagrande gave away little indication of his past at Versace, previously designing for Versus menswear, Versace Sport and Versace Jeans. But that’s perhaps no bad thing.

In place of the garish charm an audience might have expected with the above information, was a polite selection of monochrome shirts hanging on equally restrained metal hangers.

Sculpture and New York sidewalks were the reasoning behind the textured inserts and bubble wrap print.

Completing the trio of newness on display was the only female and only jewellery designer, Roxanne Farahmand, who similarly provided the only colour and gloss press release (by the bye).

With a startling display of boy racers pouring out of a car, head to toe in Nike, her pieces maybe lost a little of the limelight, though knuckledusters wider than your hand and multi logo printed drawstring bags were more than enough to draw us in.

They may not yet have wings, but this latest crop of Kennedy approved talent are certainly headed for big things. We’re placing our Craig Green replacement bets now. 

fashioneast.co.uk

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