Spring Summer 14 was Astrid Andersen’s first step out of the MAN bubble, as you’ll no doubt know. Away from Lulu Kennedy and her gang, out of the Topman venue and now with a backstage area dedicated solely to her team.
Gone were the twin openers (and catwalk stampede finale), instead a mature single file of men strode past. The first four looks were exclusively white, with the colour penetrating throughout the rest of the collection. In the same way that AW13’s gold, purple and teal perfectly honoured the season, so here did the greens and more neutral tones suit.
As in seasons past, her models were predominantly hench, bearing (and baring) chests of multipacks, each painted with a layer of sweat. Look 18 saw a guy apparently fresh out the shower, topless and carrying a towel.
Trouser silhouettes echoed those from last season, while lace made a re-appearance too. Cycling shorts, leggings and unitards offered a closer fit, layered under baggy shapes or further showing off the wearer’s physique.
With her use of lace, Andersen has often carried a feminine theme in her work. This season the theme was apparent in the floaty vest shape of look 15, as well as the crystal print that dominated many pieces, from afar appearing as a floral.
Light and breezy, interrupted only by the occasional use of neoprene (providing strong solid shapes), the collection summed up a summer in just 20 looks.
Words: Zoe Whitfield
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