As #SS15 trends on Twitter – the menswear collections making their final call at Paris tomorrow, following previews in Milan, Florence and London – women’s resort collections have been enjoying their moment ever since May.
Suddenly appearing online for nearly two months now, the between-season collections display another new note, often entwined with variations of a prior theme, possibly with the addition of a commercial mindset.
Works for us: here are six of Clash’s favourite looks.
Christian Dior, look 19: Debuted in Brooklyn, his second resort collection for the house saw Raf Simons present 66 looks, 21 more than Nicolas Ghesquiére showed at Louis Vuitton.
Primarily covered up (aesthetically at least), the belle of the collection’s ball was this fantastic yellow frock. Simultaneously hard and soft, the layered shape feels modern while the lace offers a sense of the more traditional; perfect casting with Magda Laguinge too.
Louis Vuitton, look 3: In some respects, Ghesquiére’s second offering for Vuitton was a shinier version of the first, sans knit rollnecks. On closer inspection however, the idea of a simple update is unfair, with many elements fully transformed.
Look three however, with its cinched in suede skirt, retraces the steps of March’s debut: not a bad thing. The addition of a lace top and the monochrome shoes (amplifying the busy nature of the collection), each represent an idea of the house’s new vision.
Marc by Marc Jacobs, look 3: Another semi-newbie, as Brit girls Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier do collection number two for Marc’s diffusion line.
A softer version of utility, the pair’s resort line is a more instantly wearable collection, with pockets the apparent prize, smothering shirts from the chest up.
Said pockets are the key to look three, adding volume to the top section, while the lower half offers amazing space print sandals with air bubbles (!). A grown up children’s look if you will.
Stella McCartney, look 4: Stella’s resort collections hardly ever disappoint, bearing as much promise as her mainline with an amplified sense of feminine fun. Resort 15 is no different, bar perhaps a few smartened looks.
Look four particularly caught the Clash eye, enhanced by the ‘live’ wall that backs it, the contrast in tone putting a spotlight on the subtle blue/grey silk. The shape and style of the pieces themselves are on point, an example of the anti-power suit, boasting fabric covered buttons and those incredible large pockets.
Calvin Klein Collection, look 9: Francisco Costa’s AW14 collection was a complete contrast to what he presented earlier this month for resort. While the former was consumed with heavy earth-girl textures and lace up boots, the latter 21 looks were streamlined with a clean 60’s vibe.
Look nine’s leather two-piece was as sensible as it was sexy; both slick and smart too, a faultless interpretation of a modern day mature rock chick with a skirt length that boasts as much.
Christopher Kane, look 1: There’s a specific but indefinable edge to everything Christopher Kane does, from his mainline women’s collections to resort and his more recent menswear efforts.
For resort 15 this came through most prominently in Kane’s acid coloured (embroidered) florals and lace, but it’s the first look that we dubbed most desirable.
Not exactly neutral – the leopard print displays spots of red and blue – the print is at most subtle in contrast with the rest of the collection, the cut of the jacket and matching skirt making it ultimately moreish.
Original images all via Style.com.