5 Of The Best: PFW AW14

The best of the last.

Another month of fashion parades done, now for editors to return to their desks and for the rest of us to draw some kind of conclusion of what AW14 will look like.

First though, these are a few of our favourite things via the city of love…

It was the gloves that did it, as Alessandro Dell’Acqua made his Rochas debut last week. Pairing brightly coloured leather gloves – think a luxurious marigold – with looks of soft pastel, the designer created a rich contrast that offered a kitsch modernity to proceedings, and was ultimately pretty seductive in a Miu Miu kind of way.

Heavier looks of navy and maroon were lifted by lashings of PVC and a futuristic take on cat eye style sunglasses; the latter preventing the most ladylike of looks from risk of becoming too static.

Junya Watanabe’s AW14 collection offered plenty of so-called ‘wearable’ pieces (most prominent were a series of leggings in velvet, sequins and shine), that is, wearable by conforming standards.

Elsewhere the patchwork theme, most notable of late on jeans, was addressed through a near all black collection, the single shade allowing texture to play the lead.

Accents of casualwear – puffa jackets, biker jackets, toggles – were made present via layered beasts that offered an almost protective cocoon around the body, much like lying in a box of clothes. For all this, there was a smartness and an elegance, most readily defined by the strict black uniform.

Initial reactions to Phoebe Philo’s latest collection for Céline – where she took over in 2009 – claimed a hint of Miuccia Prada in the blue gingham, the shape and length of the first few coats and the 90s zip on the leather boots (which Philo also showed for AW12) – but this was where the likenesses stopped.

The predominant offerings were ribbed knits via flares and jumper dresses, oversized fur muffs (held on the one arm) and subtle prints, though there was much displayed in-between, in a collection that was varied enough to provide a wardrobe of options. Each maintained an unspoken sense of consistency however, helped in some part by the sleek gelled back hair and single earring that accompanied every look.

Similarly at Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci welcomed many themes into his 49-look collection. Despite the ample fur on display (one of numerous offenders this season), a heavy array of styles, techniques and details welcomed fans of all dietary inclinations.

Part Raf in places – those block bands anyone? – the overall aesthetic was hard to pin down, in the best way possible. Chiffon ruffle hearts, plastic handled bags, animal prints, embellishment, leather and velvet, the new Givenchy woman is both parts flirty and strong willed, with the delicate skirt and stride enhancing trousers to prove it.

Miu Miu AW14 is a collection likely to divide opinion; do you consider sportswear high fashion or not? This will likely lead to one’s affection levels for Miuccia’s most recent contribution. Essentially, next season’s Miu Miu girl is Spring Summer’s girl on vacation via holiday camps and to a lesser extent, decade (the short lengths and plastics continue the 60s theme, while the quilted pieces and footwear styles differ).

The real star of the show was the waterproof hood, making appearances behind monochrome fur and quilted nylon in contrasting colours. The shoes too, echoing early noughties shapes and Prada SS13 via the delicate silk bows, were a feature likely to draw in those for whom other elements weren’t as favourable; similarly the silk pleated frocks referenced Miu Miu’s SS11 collection.

Extra high slits at the back of ankle length coats offered a sexy approach to an otherwise girlish collection, while metallic brocade took the primary coloured daywear through to night. 

Images via Style.com.

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