5 Of The Best From Milan: Menswear AW14

Clash’s top moments from Milan’s AW14 menswear shows.

London done, Pitti over, Milan’s catwalks provided the exact richness expected of a city of such absolute luxury.

At Gucci there were several looks vying for our lust, namely 4, 5 and 10; that fluffy jumper, the ideal shirt and impeccable jacket. Hearts went boom.

Ahead of the darker looks that finished, early colourways echoed the GAP kids department circa 2001, with blue the standout shade.

The skinny trouser – legging? – first debuted for SS14 was repeated, here finding a balance (and smartness) the latter never quite achieved.

Elsewhere Franciso Costo at Calvin Klein swapped last season’s slim trouser for a contrasting extra wide leg that walked the line between 70s bellbottoms and 90s combat trousers.

Replicas of SS14 pieces were to be found however, produced in heavy wool and paired with gloves and lace up boots.

Looks were shown as full colourways – down to the rucksack straps – while a series of sweatshirts baring the names of the label’s infamous scents are destined for big things on streetstyle sites. That’s not to play down their delight, of which they brought much.

Coats, jackets and jumpers worn as coats, there was no way Neil Barrett was going to let anyone confuse this for an interpretation of Spring Summer. The addition of an autumnal palette only further highlighted the collection’s intentions.

Trousers echoed summer’s sportier vibe, finished with a track pant style cuff, as a lightening bolt motif carried across seven looks.

The standout piece was a fluffy brown coat, belted like a dressing gown and finished off with slicked back hair and a pair of sunnies.

The polo neck – already the hit of the season surely, for its cameos at every other show (give or take) – again popped up at Costume National. This time of the knit variety, with thin versions appearing under thick knits, blazers and coats.

Its starring role was in look 19 however, which saw a bright blue number escaping a black and white pinstripe suit. Styled together, the pieces – save for the cut of the suit – screamed of the late 90s (think grown up Sporty Spice), and made for quite the punch.

Amongst the chaos that is inevitably present within the realms of a Vivienne Westwood collection, there appeared a prim – clean even – streak this season, thanks in part to the polite tucking in of shirts.

Most evident of this trend was look 9, with additional triangle graphics and collars further creating a grace.

Away from the clothes, hair was plastered with black or white matte paint and combed over with the neatest of partings, making for a cartoon effect. 

All images from Style.com.

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