With crowds brimming around Somerset House and the music folk at Clash asking, “Is there some kind of fashion week on at the moment?” – sans even a hint of irony – we rewind and pick four top highlights from the capital’s predecessor.
First up, The Row. We want to be The Row woman. Given the right time, day or place, we’d be all four women presented here, but there’s something about Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s line that says woman specifically; not girl or lady.
Here we have the art teacher’s daughter all grown up, referencing her mother’s shapes, lengths and palette, but conducting them in all her own way.
Looks seven and eight play most prominently on the mind, the soft cream a gorgeous contrast to the black and grey lace up and socks combo, distracting enough to dispel any schoolgirl sense provided by the latter.
Rodarte’s offering couldn’t have differed more from their last, the monochrome/animal print/satin of SS14 replaced with bright, glittery, fur trimmed coats, Star Wars evening dresses, earthy roll necks and crochet details.
There were elements of early Meadham Kirchhoff (exclusive to the aforementioned coats), while a savoury versus sweet contrast occupied numerous other looks, polished off royally with clear plastic specs; the ideal accessory to offset the tone.
In Alexander Wang’s AW14 collection there was a hint of Ghesquiere era Balenciaga – the label he has since taken over from Nicolas – however that is not to say the pieces on offer weren’t unique. They were.
What struck in regards to the former was the rigidness of it all; the gelled hair, the straight leather boots, the stark fabrics. But this is also what appealed so.
Look 13 was most prominent; the multiple shades of blue, distinctive textures and varying levels of smart, all highly complimentary to the one underneath.
And lastly to Marc by Marc Jacobs, or MBMJ as it is to henceforth be known. Not that they needed to, but the new women at the helm – Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier – quite literally spelt out their intentions in the label’s second look, with the word ‘revolution’ dripping down a model’s chest.
What followed has been unanimously applauded as a return to form for the diffusion line. Full of uniform grey with matching pigtails, the collection proved its power (in its simplest form) via wide belts and monstrous boots.
Classic Luella details such as heart shaped necklines and huge bows gave the collection its feminine credentials, while the key word was fun; from the pop colours of early looks to the full skirts that followed – the wearing of which one can imagine accessorising with just a smile.
Images via Style.com.