4 Of The Best: MFW AW14

In which Gucci, Prada, Moschino and Jil Sander all impress.

The fashion crowd may well have packed their bags for Paris by now, but let’s not bypass Milan Fashion Week completely. Especially when they had such joys as Gucci and Prada and…

At Gucci, designer Frida Giannini borrowed Burberry’s Spring Summer 14 colour palette, pushing the label’s AW14 collection into the depths of its 60s heyday with silhouettes strictly Mod identifiable; read knee high boots, streamlined trousers and large shaggy furs, with frill fronted shirts and animal prints also catching the eye.

Leather was the key texture on show, while similarly the iconic Gucci horsebit detail featured across boots and dress fronts alike. The latter, more evening appropriate looks included several monochrome frocks and a hearty use of jewels.

Meanwhile at Prada – so often described as the only show that really matters at MFW – Miuccia once again took everything we thought we knew of the label and adjusted the pace; for the first time ever men were represented in the womenswear show.

The clothes, a romantic blend of transparent frocks and oversized coats, saw the former absorbed almost like nightdresses under the former’s masculine tones. Bright hues of purple, red, yellow and orange offset the predominantly autumnal collection, as silk neckties adorned each model who walked, some bearing a second.

American Jeremy Scott’s catwalk debut at Moschino saw the house’s fun factor pushed to 11. The new Creative Director presented a collection that far from referencing cultural icons, fully embraced them; hence McDonalds, SpongeBob SquarePants and Chanel were all welcome.

Bags in the shape of Happy Meal boxes hung from models shoulders, while quilted numbers that more than nudged at the classic 2.55 shape were paraded on trays. Behind it all however, were clothes that can and no doubt will be worn hassle-free.

The focus on the Moschino gold and black leather belt – the kind that has sat on the waists of many an indie leaning teenager over the last five years – was present too, via a whole series of looks, most notably a dress made of said belts.

Lastly we look to Jil Sander, where without a head designer, AW14 was produced by ‘the studio’, whatever that means. Look 24 here stole the show – for Clash tastes at least – with Julia Nobis a vision in the lightest pink imaginable. A translucent roll neck and belly button topping skirt here were paired – as every pale look was – with a pair of chunky yellow snakeskin lace-ups.

Other outfits were similarly airy for the most part, with a few strong brights and several black looks reducing the Spring Summer vibes of it all. Furthermore, while the palette evoked the ‘wrong’ season (again, whatever that really means, given it’s summer and winter somewhere in the world at any one time), the actual pieces were specific to a winter collection; coats, trousers, knits, hard-wearing shoes.

All images via Style.com.

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